European researchers have identified a new generation of plant-based cosmetic ingredients with potent anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. The discovery, announced by scientists at the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, is the result of a 4.5-year international project and represents a significant step forward in the development of sustainable and effective skincare products. The project, known as InnCoCells, brought together 17 partners from 11 European countries in one of the most comprehensive investigations of plant-based cosmetic ingredients ever undertaken.
The EU-funded research initiative marks a departure from conventional methods of ingredient discovery, which have historically focused on single plant compounds. Instead, the InnCoCells project employed a broad, systematic screening approach, analyzing more than 100 plant extracts for their effects on 20 biomarkers related to skin inflammation and aging. This comprehensive analysis identified approximately 25 extracts with significant potential for use in the next generation of skincare products. The project also prioritized sustainability, ensuring that the newly discovered ingredients can be sourced from responsibly cultivated plants, cell cultures grown in bioreactors, or agricultural side-streams.
A Systematic Screening Process
The InnCoCells project distinguished itself by its comprehensive and systematic approach to ingredient discovery. Rather than isolating and testing single molecules, the research team screened a vast library of more than 100 plant extracts. This method allowed for a more holistic understanding of the potential benefits of each plant, as the synergistic effects of multiple compounds within an extract could be observed. The screening process was highly targeted, with researchers looking for specific effects on 20 biomarkers associated with skin health, particularly those involved in inflammation and the aging process.
This large-scale screening was made possible by the collaborative nature of the project, which was supported by a €7.9 million grant from the EU’s Horizon 2020 program. The 17 partner organizations, which included universities, research institutes, and businesses, brought a wide range of expertise to the project. This multidisciplinary approach was essential for the success of the project, enabling the team to move from initial screening to the validation of commercial and ecological feasibility.
Key Botanical Breakthroughs
Among the more than 100 extracts screened, three plants showed exceptional promise for cosmetic applications: Cochlearia danica (Danish scurvygrass), Capsicum chinense (a tropical pepper), and Ocimum basilicum (basil). Each of these plants demonstrated a unique combination of anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antimicrobial properties.
Danish Scurvygrass: A Multifunctional Powerhouse
Cell cultures of Danish scurvygrass, a small herb found on the coastlines of Northern Europe, were identified as a particularly potent source of bioactive compounds. Extracts from this plant exhibited strong anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects in laboratory tests. In addition, the extract demonstrated powerful antimicrobial properties, exceeding the performance of many single-compound ingredients currently used in the cosmetics industry.
Tropical Pepper: Gentle and Effective
Extracts derived from the cell cultures of a tropical pepper, Capsicum chinense, also showed significant potential. This extract was found to have strong anti-aging activity, protecting skin cells from stress. It also displayed promising antimicrobial activity against harmful skin bacteria, including the hospital bacterium MRSA. Notably, the tropical pepper extract achieved these effects without causing any signs of skin irritation, a common side effect of some popular anti-aging ingredients like retinol and vitamin C.
Basil Roots: Targeted Anti-Aging
The third key discovery came from the hairy roots of basil. Extracts from this common herb showed a unique ability to counter the signs of skin aging by inhibiting the enzymes collagenase and hyaluronidase. These enzymes are known to break down collagen and hyaluronic acid, two essential components of healthy skin. By inhibiting these enzymes, the basil root extract can help to preserve the skin’s structure and hydration. The extract did not, however, affect elastase, another enzyme involved in skin aging, suggesting a targeted mechanism of action.
Sustainable and Scalable Production
A central goal of the InnCoCells project was to ensure that the newly discovered ingredients could be produced in a sustainable and scalable manner. The researchers successfully demonstrated that the most promising extracts can be obtained from responsibly cultivated plants grown in greenhouses, from plant cell and tissue cultures in bioreactors, or from agricultural side-streams that would otherwise be discarded. These methods of production offer a number of advantages over traditional harvesting methods, including greater control over quality and purity, a reduced environmental footprint, and the ability to scale up production to meet commercial demand.
The project also included a thorough evaluation of the sustainability and commercial potential of each production platform. Life cycle assessments and techno-economic analyses were conducted to validate the feasibility of these innovative production methods. This forward-thinking approach ensures that the discoveries made in the laboratory can be translated into commercially viable products that are also environmentally friendly.
From Laboratory to Marketplace
The findings of the InnCoCells project are already being translated into commercial opportunities. VTT and its partners are actively exploring business models and collaborations to bring these new ingredients to the cosmetics market. According to Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey, the coordinator of the InnCoCells project at VTT, the project is building a pipeline of ingredients that “combine scientifically proven skin benefits with responsible, scalable production.” She added that “these findings highlight how nature and science can come together to create the next generation of cosmetic ingredients.”
The successful identification and validation of these new plant-based ingredients represent a significant achievement for the European bioeconomy. By harnessing the power of biotechnology and sustainable agriculture, the InnCoCells project has paved the way for a new generation of cosmetics that are both effective and environmentally responsible.